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Jon Cardwell's Guide to Rifle

FrictionLabs Pro and world-class climber, Jon Cardwell, provides his favorite Warmups and Must-Do Rifle routes, plus, the attitude you need for climbing there.

How to Use This Guide:

Simply print (or screenshot) and combine with Wolverine Publishing's Rifle Guide Book.

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Friction Labs® Loose Chalk

Go-to Warmups:

Creating a list of "Go-To Warmups" is tricky, because usually every year they change a bit. Earlier on, there were new routes as often as possible, but nowadays they're pretty hard to find. Anyway, for sake of not ranting too long here are a few routes that I’ve really enjoyed through the years as warmups:

Pile Driver (11a)
Choss Family (11a)
Fossil Family (11d)
Cardinal Sin (12a)
Defenseless Betty (12a)
Mighty Mouse (12c)
Hang ‘em High (12c)
Vitamin D (12d)


Must-do Rifle Routes:

If I had to choose a few to suggest, they would be...


Shadowboxing (14d)
Fat Camp (14c)
Bad Girls Club (14c)
Nostalgi (14b)
Waka Flocka (14b)
Lungfish (14b)
7 pm TV Show (14a)
Zulu (14a)
Living The Dream (14a)
Simply Read (13d)
Living in Fear (13d)
Sometimes Always (13c)
Spray-A-Thon (13c)
Anti-Phil (13b)
Apocalypse (13b)
The Eighth Day (13a)
The Beast (13a)
Hand Me the Canteen Boy (12d)
Easy Skankin’ (12b)
Genesis (12a)

What to Know if It's Your First Time:

Definitely bring kneepads! 
In recent years, a Flash Board or some sort of portable hang board is definitely useful. 
There are plenty of options, even if it’s raining!
Know that the climbing is difficult and the beta is even more difficult – that’s part of the fun! And, over time, the strange, polished, powerful, cryptic rock becomes more comfortable – if it doesn’t, sorry, you probably just have a poor attitude. 
Those who I’ve witness climb best in Rifle embrace the style as opposed to hating on it. 
If you’re in the canyon, and the cool creek plus two miles of steep limestone are not enough...be sure to at least enjoy the challenge.
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